So I feel like I keep hearing about single-varietal bottlings of Graciano but have yet to ever see one. It is one of the four approved varietals that can be included in Riojo reds and considered by some to be the highest quality of varietals. Granted this is only hearsay. Until recently.
While in Bordeaux of all places, I stumbled upon a 13 Euro example of 100% Graciano which got me quite excited in more than one way (use your imagination). I almost immediately returned back to my rented flat to see if this mythical beast was the real deal. And…
Such a disappointing wine experience. It lacked complexity to make it worthwhile but was well structured and seemingly had potential if maybe the quality of the grape had been better. In Graciano’s defense, the amazing examples, which “never make it out of Spain”, are quoted at much higher price points, so the possibility of these perception-altering versions could be very real. Now, I just have to find one.



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